Sewing through the years

By Judi Ketteler

In case you don’t know, sewing is what all the cool girls are doing now. This was most certainly not the case when I was 16, but sewing has made a transformation from dying art to hipster hobby. Today’s fabric is gorgeous, the patterns are fabulous, and the web sites and blogs devoted to sewing are crazy with inspiration and talent.

To see other women (and young girls) embracing this activity I’ve always loved so much thrills me. But as I started to research my book, Sew Retro: 25 Vintage-Inspired Projects for the Modern Girl & A Stylish History of the Sewing Revolution, I realized sewing’s history has been a bumpy one—full of shady characters, narrow and problematic assumptions about women’s roles, and incredible flashes of talent. Let’s just say the needle and thread have been around the block a few times, and been rejected and embraced many times over in the last few centuries.

A good place to start is the invention of the modern sewing machine by Isaac Singer in the early 1850s. Other inventors had tried, but Singer was the first to make it work. The descriptions I’ve read of Singer characterize him as a bit of a ladies’ man, out for a quick buck and a cheap thrill (I’m guessing people locked up their liquor and their daughters when he came to town). Nonetheless, his engineering know-how made women’s lives so much easier. Of course, is it fair that women were stuck doing all the sewing, as well as taking care of the house and the kids, with no real say in the matter? Of course not. Nineteenth-century domesticity—for all its beautiful artifacts—was no picnic. But at least a sewing machine meant women didn’t have to take every stitch by hand. Commercial sewing patterns were introduced in the 1850s (Butterick produced the first sized patterns in 1863), and by the 1890s, patterns looked similar to how they look today (directions and pattern pieces inside an envelope).

By the 1920s, sewing was starting to wane because the ready-made garment industry was growing like crazy. A whole generation of swanky flappers realized that perhaps they didn’t have to sew anymore. Organizations like the Women’s Domestic Institute (led for many years by the amazing Mary Brooks Picken) tried to show women that their sewing skills had great commercial appeal. The Institute taught women to sew (via correspondence course) and helped thousands of women start small sewing-based businesses (if only Etsy were around then!).

As an industry, sewing wasn’t in danger of folding in the 1920s and 30s, but it was limping somewhat. We have this idea that everyone must have started sewing again during The Great Depression, which isn’t exactly true. People actually just made-do with less (and mended more). It was World War II that truly rejuvenated sewing. Women sewed for the war effort (coining the phrase “Sew for Victory!”), and they also learned the amazing art of repurposing old clothes into new things (since fabric was heavily rationed). By the mid 1940s, sewing was booming again; sales were way up, and Singer Sewing Centers popped up everywhere, wooing thousands of eager teenage girls (and on that note, thank goodness Singer himself wasn’t around anymore).

We like to think the 1950s were the golden age of sewing in America, and it was definitely the height of couture sewing (because pattern companies started partnering with famous designers to offer high-end style to middle-class women). But in reality, the numbers had already started to drop. It took until the 1960s for women to really rediscover sewing again. The hippy handcraft fad of the 1970s (think macramé) kept the momentum going.

But the 1980s? Forget about it. The “me” generation wasn’t interested. It wasn’t until the late 1990s that young women started digging out their grandmothers’ machines and bright young designers pushed fabric and pattern design into the 21st century. There were about 30 million home sewers in 1997, and by 2006, the number had jumped again: the last number I was able to find was 35 million American women sewing, as reported by the Home Sewing Association (an organization that doesn’t exist anymore).

What’s great about today is that women are free to sew or not sew, and to shape their own creative identities in any way they see fit. It’s that simple choice about our destiny that has made sewing more appealing than ever.

Judi Ketteler (www.judiketteler.com) has an M.A. in literature from Miami University of Ohio, and works full-time as a freelance writer. An avid sewer, she is the author of Sew Retro: 25 Vintage-Inspired Projects for the Modern Girl & A Stylish History of the Sewing Revolution (July 2010, Voyageur Press). Find more info about sewing, her blog, fun vintage images, bonus projects and tutorials at www.sewretrothebook.com.

IMAGE: Vintage Singer sewing machine, circa 1851

Tagged as: Judi Ketteler, Sew Retro, sewing projects, Singer sewing machines

Joyce

Sewing was an automatic activity for in the 1960s for girls in 4H. I still remember my first project, a simple apron. And then jumpers, dresses, blouses. And going to judging events and, if you were particularly good, State Day where you competed against other 4Hers in the State. My younger sister would stop at the store on the way home from school, pick up a yard of material and a zipper and have a new mini skirt to wear to school the next day. My older sister made my wedding dress from a picture in a Bridal magazine. In the 80s and 90s I made many of my daughter’s Halloween costumes from scratch. I still have my circa 1985 sewing machine. My mother still has her circa 1960s sewing machine. A good sewing machine, well-taken care of will last many, many years.
Lisa

Very interesting, looks like a great book.
Suzanne

Sewing has always been a hobby for some of us… But I like your point about it being a choice now instead of a chore.
http://www.thisview.org Emily

I’ve been watching my friends slowly take to sewing over the years. Mostly so that they could make convention costumes, but a few of them have expanded into creating day-to-day clothing as well. Like so many other supposedly ‘old fashioned’ activities, I watched my mother sew while I was growing up and it never occurred to me that it wasn’t something that everyone still knew how to do. It delights me that more people (men and women in my social group!) are rediscovering this skill.

I’m glad I don’t have to sew my entire wardrobe, but I’m also glad that I can make a piece exactly the way I want it when I need to. Saves money as well as time, as it’s often quicker for me to draft a pattern than search out the perfect one in stores.
Katelyn Patterson

I haven’t done much sewing… I stick to knitting! But I admire anyone that has a talent for it. It is on the list of things to learn!!
http://www.sarahsundin.com Sarah Sundin

I bucked the 80s trend My mother sewed most of my clothes when I was a girl and she passed her love for sewing on to me. I sewed a great deal of my own clothes as a teen and a young woman – including my wedding dress! I loved the creative use of fabrics and patterns and being able to save money. Nowadays I find it’s not as economical to sew – patterns are pricey and storebought clothes are cheap. But sometimes it’s fun to bring out my Singer and create something unique.
http://chewdigestbooks.com Gwen

See, I always knew that I didn’t “fit” in my generation. I was sewing in the 80′s, even took a couple of classes in junior high.

What amazes me is that pattern packaging/delivery hasn’t changed that much since the 1890′s. That is something that I wish someone would improve somehow. Can’t tell you how many times I cuss at the darn tissue for ripping!

Would love to win this to review on not only my book blog, but my home decorating blog. Those readers already know that I am crazy about sewing and creating my own patterns. I did a tutorial on how to turn a duvet that I hated into a flannel sheet set that I love. They thought I was crazy, but I call it being resourceful!
Lisa

Sounds like an interesting read — would love to see the patterns!
Sheri

My grandmother taught me to sew, and I have just recently revisited sewing with the purchase of a new machine! I was surprised to find that I remembered how to thread it after over 20 years. I find joy in details, so the detailed nature of sewing and embroidering has always appealed to me.

For anyone who appreciates intriguing and unique fabric patterns, here’s a great site: http://www.spoonflower.com/welcome
Sue

My mother taught me basic sewing for my first 4-H project, making a sleeveleess blouse. She could make anything, all I had to do was choose material and show her a picture of what I wanted . I, however, was an impatient 10 yr old and it took another 20-odd years before I came back to the machine. Still won’t try sleeves. I am trying to do the re-purposing thing, as it bothers me how easily our culture discards almost everything. I love all my vintage clothes, too. Please enter my name in the draw.
librarypat

I remember my grandmother sewing for all of us back in the 50s and 60s. All of us included about 40 grandchildren at the time. She helped me sew some difficult pieces after I learned the basics in Home Economics. I sewed extensively in the 70s, 80s, and 90s for my children and myself. I have also been a craft sewer for a long time. Now, most of my sewing is for costumes for Halloween or the different reenactments we attend. I am looking forward to having a bit more time to sew for myself.
Unfortunately, my children haven’t shown an interest in sewing. They always ask me. With their busy lives and the complexity of their projects, it really is easier to do it myself rather than try to teach them.
Pamela Toler

Both, I’ve waited a long time to be hip! In the sixties my younger sister and I used to hang out in the fabric store the way other kids hung out at the soda fountain. We’d pore over pattern books and hunt for treasures on the remnants table. We both still sew when inspired.
http://brokenteepee.blogspot.com Patty

My mother was an excellent seamstress. I just acquired a sewing machine after many years and will soon have a craft room. This would be a fun book to own.
thank you
Serena

This sounds interesting. My mother and my 4-H leaders taught me to sew. I don’t consider myself a very good seamstress but with my mother watching over me I was able to make my daughter’s prom dresses (and they were lovely).
If only the fabric stores had more selection. It seems that the pickings are getting so small.
Please enter me in the drawing.
CarolNWong

I would love to read this book. Wish that my mother was alive so that she could enjoy this book too!
http://unabridged-expression.blogspot.com/ Audra

Fascinating — I’m not much for sewing myself but I’m getting into ‘women’s’ crafts recently, lots of fiber arts stuff — I’d love a chance to win this book!
Sharon

Fun!! I have my late mom’s old Singer. It only sews forward and reverse — no zigzag even. But it’s a beaut: gorgeous stitches and the soft clickety hum of the needle are simple pleasures. I remember one time asking my grandmother how she, my mother and aunt managed to dress so fashionably when they were not rich. She looked surprised. “We sewed our clothes,” she stated…Yes, sewing is a lost home art. But knitting made a comback, so who knows? Sewing probably needs a celebrity role model or two!
http://www.deadpoes.org Walter Skold

Sounds like a great book for my daughter! I want to sign up for the others, but this would be great to win for her. We’ve got an old sewing machine as well, and it works fine.
Lydia

I spent the early 80s in London making clothes for myself and costumes for my little sister, having learned from my own mother. (I still have the sewing machine that belonged to my grandfather’s ‘nurse’, which is an old singer I started making teddy bear clothes on.) Seeing this post and the gorgeous-looking book makes me want it to re-inspire my own daughter – now 13 – and feel guilty that after six years of making dressing-up costumes to her and her next brother down’s specifications, I’ve not been much of an example since their twin brothers appeared on the scene – the machine comes out for mending and making jeans skinnier! A good resolution for the new school year then….

And thanks Sheri for the spoonflower tip-off – what a wonderful site!
http://libraryofmyown.blogspot.com Amanda

I’d love to win this! I am a novice sewer and just inherited my mother and grandmother’s sewing machine. Thanks for the chance to read this!
Betsy

Sounds like a fabulous book – would love to get a look at it! Enter my name in the drawing!
Sheri Knauth

Everyone should learn to sew… okay.. that counts me in and I don’t know how.
I would love to read this book and get me into the mood to take a class or find a friend who is willing to pass on this most important skill.
Debbie D

My mother would love this, it looks so interesting. Please include me in your giveaway.
Thanks
Debbie D
Lindsey

I’ve always wanted to learn to sew. This book would give me an incentive to finally do it.
http://www.bookstogetherblog.com Anamaria

Sewing skipped a generation in my family, too: my grandmother sewed (and knitted, and crocheted), but my mom worked outside the home and din’t have the time or inclination to sew. Now I do–mostly costumes and small stuffed things, although occasionally I take on the more ambitious project and would love to try my hand at some of the patterns in this book. Thanks for the post and the giveaway!
http://www.twitter.com/dontworryteach Jamie J

I would love to see if there is anything included in this book regarding the end of sewing/home economics classes in most American high schools and the increase in sewing as a “hip” pasttime. I’m not sure if there’s a correlation, but usually when something stops being required it becomes cool.
Michelle

Please include me in the giveaway! Love to sew and love retro.